First planking



The first planking is done with strips of 2mm ply, 80cm long x 5mm wide. These were cut from a sheet, but you may be able to find them ready-cut as planks.



Two planks on each side are critical to ensure the hull is built correctly.


a) Chines (fitted to the sides, not the underneath) from step to prow.


b) Gunwales (on side, not top) from stern to prow. Be sure to get the height correct where it passes the central formers as there's no angle to guide you.


As you fit them check that the keel remains straight.



Plank the sides from bow to stern (ie above the step). Use PVA glue and pins, and glue the edges of the planks too for a stronger result.


Here, a clamp is being used to hold planks to the transom. There is no 'correct' answer on how to hold things while glue dries, it's whatever you have to hand and works the best. Always work out how to hold the parts before you put the glue on.


















Pins are hammered in only far enough to hold the planks while the glue dries, and pulled out afterwards. Here, all the full-length side planks are fitted.

Now plank the front sides below the step, down to the chine.


First, plank the rear underside (between step and transom).

Planks on the front underside (from step forward to stem)  need to overlap the step (F5) slightly. Cut the step area from the plans and use it as a template to ensure the correct overlap and shape. Here, the first three planks have been fitted.













Now complete the front underside from step to prow.



















As planking continues the planks will start to want to follow their own route. Don't try to force them, let them run where they are happiest.











First planking won't show in the finished model, so don't worry if it looks a bit rough at this stage. The main thing is to get the shape of the hull right.

This is the step after the undersides are planked. Backfill the small gap under the front planking with filler. As always, shape is critical.





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